The End

Made it. As far as we can calculate, about 22 hours door to door. Everything worked as it should have done, although it does bring home the absurdity of changing in the US. You have to queue (only about an hour or a bit more) to get through security – although the stress levels in the queue are probably correlated with how long people have to get their connecting flight. Then you immediately have to queue to get through security to get your flight.

Anyway, wonderful view of Monte Alban as we left Oaxaca

And a very welcome drink in Dallas

Nearly the End

In fact I’m writing this as we’re waiting for the taxi to Oaxaca airport. We have a 3 hour flight to Dallas, then a change (allowing 3 hours🤞) followed by an overnight back to the grey and miserable Heathrow. So a bit tentative, but everything is now out of our hands.

Anyway, back to Oaxaca. The tour on Thursday to Monte Alban was “padded out” with other stuff, which was OK but not especially memorable.

Mezcale tasting – tried the one with CBD band the one with worms, but they didn’t have the scorpion flavour …

Alebrijes factory

And so on. But I think I’ll finish with lots more nice pictures.

Monte Alban

Monte Alban is an amazing experience. We were on a tour to it with Viktor who is Mexican. Ever since he was 8 years old it has been his life’s ambition to visit Monte Alban, and we guessed he’s now in his 50s. I had never even heard of it before we went, so had zero expectations. Made me wonder how our experiences differed.

Anyway, enough of that. It is an extraordinary ancient city, and as always in Mexico stands at about 2,000m. It was so good, we actually took ourselves off there the following day to take another look.

Here’s a small selection of the pictures – and it’s almost impossible to do it justice.

Chilling

Apropos nothing at all, just seen only our third cat in the whole time we’ve been in Mexico.

Anyway, that is chilling metaphorically, as literally it really did hit 30 degrees. Everyone we’d met in Mexico said how much they enjoyed Oaxaca, and we began to see why. Usual plan was to broadly follow the walking route but more slowly, and with more frequent coffee/beer/lunch stops.

This one isn’t the cathedral but those “humble” Dominicans, as in Puebla. Solid gold again – none of that cheap gold leaf.

Colourful view of the main square – so much activity. Apparently there is usually a strike of some sort, and/or a protest, which attracts hundreds of street vendors as well.

It looks hot because it was.

Eventually retired to a rooftop bar.

And finally enjoyed the street art. “I know God never dies”

Oaxaca

Forgot to mention yesterday the process of checking out of apartments. Apartments fall into two categories – those you can get back into, and those you can’t. Obviously with the latter we are super careful before we once and for all lock the apartment knowing we can’t get back in.

So we’re already in the Uber on the way to the bus station in Puebla when I realise I’ve left my small rucksack (containing passports, amongst other important stuff) in the apartment, and guess which category of apartment it fell in to. Yup – had to call the agent who was thankfully close by to let us in, so alls well that ends well. And the Uber driver’s tip (£4) was actually bigger than his fare!

Oh, and another thing – we’ve been staying in Mexico City, San Cristobal and Puebla, and they’re all at about 2,200 metres (7,000 feet in old money). Now we’re in Oaxaca we’re now in the heady depths of 1,600m (5,000ft). And no idea if it’s connected but we’re seeing much hotter weather – high 20s or might even hit 30 degrees.

Started the first day with the obligatory walking tour, with Abel as our guide.

As usual, great for getting our bearings, and will use that as our framework for our stay here. A few introductory pictures

Tierra del Sol

And then, complementary to Eileen’s super-planning, something unexpected and memorable happens.

Got a recommendation from Abel about restaurants and chose this one almost at random.

Started with a tortilla tasting session. Including a grasshopper salsa (with extra grasshopper salt). It was good, but you’d never guess.

Great views from the terrace. One of the issues here in Mexico is that because we’re so unfamiliar with the food terms, even if you order something you like, you’ll probably never find it again. Anyway, Eileen had quail!

Monday – On to Oaxaca

Last move before we head home. Onwards to Oaxaca.

We have met so many wonderful people – Canadians escaping their winter and young Europeans being away for months. Without exception the latter group are all heading south, through Guatemala and Belize to South America.

They are obviously travelling on a budget, so 13 hour overnight coach trips are not uncommon. For us, a 5 hour day coach journey from Puebla to Oaxaca feels like a challenge.

Actually it was fine, although using a loo at 60mph presents its own challenges. But some of the scenery (again at over 2000m was fantastic.

And arrived in time to enjoy our first evening in Oaxaca. Everyone we’ve met loves it, so here’s hoping.

A Weekend in Puebla

Getting towards the final week of our trip and beginning to relax a bit; much of the hard work is now done.

A walking tour as usual, although Eileen was a bit below par. So I had to go alone and then try to remember and repeat it the next day. Missed out a lot …

Anyway, San Domingo Church – not the cathedral

This is pure gold – around 4 tonnes apparently. That’s half a billion pounds if you’re interested.

Lovely town to chill in.

Friday – To Puebla

That’s San Cristóbal done. We’re finding the distances in Mexico to be huge, and we’re too old for 13 hour night bus journeys. So it’s a flight back to Mexico City and a taxi to Puebla.

Somewhere there in the clouds is Popocatapetl volcano.

Just in time for a brief acclimatisation. View from our terrace. Might even be the volcano in the background.

Then a brief foray into town.

Thursday – Sumidero Canyon

It’s just a ride down a river through a gorge, but with amazing views.

Firstly we got taken to a viewing point

Yup – that’s where we’re going – 1,000 metres down there.

But before we get top the trip, a quick shout out to Elizabeth who was fantastic fun and mad as a box of frogs.

She immediately sat up front with the driver – I thought she was a guide but she wasn’t – and then played Mexican music from her phone through the speakers getting all on board (except 2!) to sing along. Then dug out a bottle of tequila and some shot glasses and handed those around the bus (everyone partaking in this one!). And she was very kind to us – everyone else spoke Spanish so she made sure we understood what was going on and where we were supposed to be.

On the boat – first stop is the floating bar to buy a beer.

Then we’re off – and it was a stunning couple of hours. Hang on to your hats!

Yes – they are crocodiles.

Oops …

Day of Rest

We’re about halfway, and the schedule includes a rest day. We’re going to need a holiday when we’re done!!!

So taking it easy in San Christobal for a whole day. And it’s beautifully sunny and warm.

Although a quick update from New York where apparently it’s beautiful and cold.

Stumbled across more murals in the university

We had been introduced to a great cafe and coffee shop by Anna (La Espirituosa)

And a bit embarrassing – we were trying to find the Mayan Textile Museum. Google Maps was quite helpful, except that when we got in there it wasn’t the right one. Went off to lunch to do more research and found that we had been in the right museum, just on the wrong floor.

Anyway, well worth it.

(although this next one is a photograph in an exhibition)